Manufacture of stitch-down shoes



Oct. 29, 1929. w. KAUT 1,733,375

MANUFACTURE OF STITCH DOWN SHOES Filed May 22, 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet l.Zra. 4 5,, 1 54 5/ 5/ 54 mwwrae W/m/KAUT By j f ATTORNEY 1929- w. KAUT,733,375

MANUFACTURE OF STITCH DOWN SHOES Filed May 22, 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet 2lxvvewroe WM. My 7' Arron/wa Patented Oct. 29, 1929 PATENT GFFECEWILLIAM KAUT, OF UNIVERSITY CITY, MISSOURI MANUFACTURE OF STITCHJDOWNSHOES Application filed May 22,

This invention relates to an improved article of manufacture and a novelmethod of producing the same, and has for an important object thereofthe provision of an improved stitch-down shoe, the toe of which ismolded in a novel manner. 1t may be considered that the instantapplication forms a continuation in part of my co-pending applicationfor Letters Patent of the United 19 States, relating to toe moldingmachines,

Serial No. 118,786, filed June 26, 1926.

Fig. 1 illustrates a fragmentary vertical section of a machine of thetype employed in carrying out my improved method of making stitch-downshoes.

Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 1, but showing certain of the movableparts of the structure in moved positions.

Fig. 3 is a fragment of the structure shown in Figs. 1 and 2, butillustrating certain parts in positions different from those in whichthey are shown in Figs. 1 and 2.

Fig. 4 is a front elevation of a fragment of the mechanism illustratedin Fig. 1.

Fig. 5 is a perspective of the toe-molding means of the machine.

Fig. 6 illustrates a fragment of a shoe being manufactured in accordancewith my improved method, said shoe fragment being 30 mounted on a last.

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary perspective of a shoe being manufactured inaccordance with my improved method, looking at the upper portionthereof.

Fig. 8 is a perspective of the shoe fragment shown in Fig. 7, but viewedfrom the bottom thereof.

Referring now to the drawings, 48 designates a member mounted at theupper end of a suitable base portion (not shown) of the machine, saidmember 418 including a pair of spaced apart upright wall portions 49,each of which is provided with a guideway 50. 51 designates a carrierprovided with outwardly extended flanges 52 which extend into theguideways 50, whereby said carrier may be. moved with relation to saidwall portions in a direction parallel with the guideways 50. Byreferring to Figs. 1 and def the drawings the more or less irregularshape- 1929. Serial No. 365,007.

of the carrier will be apparent. In these views the body portion 51 isshown as being extended transversely of the space between the pair ofwall portions 49 with the opposite side edges thereof terminating just cshort of said wall portions (Fig. 4). Projected forwardly from the frontedge of the body portion 51 and extended outwardly in a transversedirection from the opposite side edges thereof is a pair of bars 53 onto which the guides 52 are formed, said bars preferably being formedintegral with said body portion 51. In like manner, the bars 53 extend aslight distance upwardly above the top of the body portion 51, and saidbars are provided with notches 54 which extend longitudinally thereof.

Formed in the top face of the body portion 51 of the carrier 51 is achannel 55 which extends from the front edge of said body portion to apoint slightly in advance of the rear edge thereof, and mountedimmediately above said cnannel is a flat spring or other resilientmember 56. The flat spring is secured to the body portion 51 at the rearthereof, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, and at its forward end said springis provided with an upstanding projection 57 which has an inclined face.58 desi nates the toe-molding plate of my improved machine, said plateeing more or less U-shaped as shown in Fig. 5, and being of such widthand thickness that its opposite edge portions may be introduced into thenotches 54 in the bars 53 at the forward ends of said notches and 3 slidlongitudinally of the notches. The plate 58 is provided with an aperture59 adjacent to its rear edge, and at its approximate transverse center,and when the plate is slid longitudinally of the notches 54: asdescribed, the rear edge of said plate will contact with the inclinedface of the projection 57, whereby the flat spring on which saidprojection is arranged will be cammed downwardly in a manner to causethe plate to pass over said projection until the aperture 59 moves intovertical registration therewith, when said incline faced projection willsnap into said aperture 59. When the incline faced projection is locatedwithin the aperture 59 as described, the straight face thereof will bein contact with the rear wall of said aperture and the forward faces ofthe projections 58 formed on the body portion 51 will contact with therear edge of the plate 58. In this manner the plate 58 will be attachedto the carrier 51 and will move with it when motion is imparted thereto,

designates a cross member which is secured to the body portionol of thecarrier 51 at the rear thereof (Figs. 1 and 2), and 61 designates a pairof downwardly extended lugs which preferably are formed integral withthe body portion 51 at the forward edge thereof. 62 designates a member,the opposite edge portions of which are extended into oppositelydisposed guideways 63 at the lower portion of the body portion 51',which guideways extend from front to rear of said body portion. Themember 62 is in contact with the lower face of the body portion 51 ofthe carrier 51 and is interposed between the cross, member and thedownwardly extended lugs 61, and said member is in turn provided withdownwardly extended lugs (34: which are alined with the lugs 61. Thelugs (51 and 6d are provided with spring seats, and interposed betweeneach cooperating pair of lugs and seated in the spring seats thereof isa coil spring (35. It is plain that as a result of the expansion of thecoil spring 65, the member 2 is forced rearwardly until the rear edgethereof contacts with the forward edge of the cross member (30.

(56 designates a bar which is carried by the carrier and extendstransversely with respect thereto, and 67 designates upstanding lugswhich are arranged adjacent to the opposite ends of said member.Pivotally supported by the lugs (37 is a weight (58, said weight beingin the form of a U-shaped bar, and being capable of being moved about itpivots (59 from the position in which it is shown in Fig. 1 to aposition where it rests upon the last L. The weight 68 is provided witha handle 70 to facilitate handling thereof.

71 designates a toggle comprising a pair of arms pivotally connectedtogether at their inner ends, the outer end of the rearmost of said armsbeing pivotally attached to a stationary part of the machine at 72, andthe outer end of the forward arm being pivot-ally atta-l it at 73 to :1lug 74 extended downwart, y from the member 62. The inner ends of theanus-which are pivotaily attached together have pivotally secured tothem at the point of zttachment a downwardly extended rod 75, at thelower end of which said rod is pivotally attached to, the inner end of afoot pedal 76, which foot pedal is in turn pivoted at 77 to a fixedmember 7 8. 79 designates a coil spring one end of which is attached tothe toggle 71 at the point where the two arms coin sing same areattached together, and the other end, at said spring is attached to astationary part of the machine, so that the inner attached ends of saidarms will be drawn downwardly.

It is obvious that in the operation of the machine pressure on the outerend of the foot pedal 76 will move the inner ends of the arms comprisingthe toggle 71 upwardly, and as the real-most arm of said toggle is firedto the machine frame, the forward arm of the toggle will be movedforwardly of the machine, carrying the carrier 51 with it, which carrierwill slide longitudinally of the guideways 50. The downward movement ofthe foot pedal will be continued until the pivotally attached inner endsof the arms comprising the toggle 71 pass dead center, or, in other wors, move to a position where they are inclined upwardly toward theirinner ends, where upward movement of said pivotally attached inner endswill stop. 'hen the to le is in the position described,

will be maintained in a locked condition and the carrier will bemaintained in a forwa d or advanced position.

80 de gnates a toggle trip lever which is pivoted at 81 to suitablebrackets fixed to the machine, said trip lever being arranged invertical alineinent with the toggle 71 and having a portion whichcontacts with the inner portions of the arms comprising the tog.- glewhen said trip lever is swung on its pivot in a manner to force saidpivotally attached inner ends of said arms downwardly to break 1 itoggle a n d permit the spring 79 to return it to the position in whichit is shown in Fig.

l. .he trip lerer is provided with a handle portion 83 and a weightedportion 8% to re to the position in which it is shown in Fig. 1 aftersaid lever has been operated.

Pivotally attached to the base of the machine at the point indicated bythe reference character 85 is a second foot pedal 86 to which avertically attached rod 87 is pivotally attached at the point indicatedby the reference character 88. T he upper end of the rod 87 is pivotallyattached at 89 to a member 90, which member is provided with a tubularportion 91. posed rod which is arranged for vertical movement insuitable bearings 93, and said rod extends through the tubular portion91 of the member and is rigidly fixed thereto by a set screw 9 f. Fixedto the rod 92 adjacent to the upper end thereof is a collar 9.. andmounted on said rod above said collar is a member 96 having a verticallydisposed tubular portion 96 and a horizontally disposed tubular portion96". The vertically disposed tubular portion 96" surrounds the uppernortion of the rod 92, the'lower face thereor resting on the collar 95,and suitable means such as the nut 96 and washer 97 is employed toprevent upward displacement of the member 96 with respect to the upperend portion of the rod 92. The member 96 is 92 designates a verticallydiscapable of swinging in an arc of a circle about the rod 92.

Extended into the tubular portion 96 is a horizontally disposed rod 98,said tubular portion being provided with an elongated slot 99, throughwhich a set screw or similar element 100 is passed, which set screw isrigidly associated at its inner end with the rod 98. Fixed to the rod 98at the forward end thereof is a handle 101, and pivotally at tached tothe lower end of said handle at the point designated by the referencecharacter 102 is a heating and pressing iron 103. The heating andpressing iron 103 is provided with a flat lower pressing face, and saidiron is provided with an opening formed therein into which a suitableelectrical heating unit 104: is extended, to which electrical energy isconducted by means of conductors 105. 106 designates a coil spring, oneend of which is attached to the upper end of the rod 87, the other endthereof being secured to a stationary part of the machine. The functionof the spring 106 is to return the heating and pressing iron 103 and itsassociated parts to their elevated positions after they have been drawndownwardly by depression of the forward end of the lever 86.

In the operation of the machine illustrated in the drawings, the last Lshown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3 is mounted in any convenient manner. The lastL will, of course, have the upper, lining and box toe material of ashoemounted on it, and the lasting allowance or the portions of the shoeelements which are subsequently shaped to provide an outwardly extendedflange on the shoe are extended upwardly, as shown in Fig. 1. When theshoe has been properly positioned with respect to the cooperating partsof the machine, the foot pedal 76 will be engaged by the operator andthe forward end thereof depressed. This will result in the carrier 51,which supports the toemolding plate 58, being moved forwardly, and saidtoe-molding plate will engage the shoe upper in such manner that the topface of said. plate will be approximately alined horizontally with thetop face of the last L. When the toe molding plate has been positionedas described, the toe portion of the last with the shoe upper arrangedthereon will extend into the cut-out portion of the plate 58. wherebythe side portions of said plate will engage the side portions of thelast. This will result in the outer leather, box toe material, andlining (if lining be used) being drawn closely about the toe portion ofthe last so that the shoe is provided with a smooth toe portion. Thetoe-molding plate moves into contact with the shoe parts on the lastjust as the toggle 71 passes over dead center, hence said toe-moldingplate will remain locked in its advanced position until the toggle isbroken by operating the trip lever 80. The function of the coil springsis to permit the carrier 51 and the plate 58 to yield slightly, ifthis-be necessary, to prevent injuring the shoe. However, these springsare of sufficient strength to cause the outer leather, box toe material,and the lining to be drawn closely about the toe portion of the last.

After the toe portion of the shoe has been molded as described, andwhile the toe-molding plate is in contact therewith, the outer end ofthe foot pedal 86 is depressed to draw the heating and pressing iron 103down wardly into contact with the upper face of the last, and as saidheating and pressing iron reaches the top of the last the handle 101 isgrasped and said heating and pressing iron is moved laterally andforward y in contact with the top face of the last to press the last ingallowance of the shoe parts (which until this time was extendedupwardly) horizontally and outwardly to provide the shoe with anoutwardly extended flange portion at the toe portion thereof, saidflange being pressed the top face of the toe-molding plate 58. hen theheated iron 103 is applied to the box toe material, said material willbe softened and the tar-like substance with which it is treated willbecome sticky or tacky enough to cause the box toe material and theother shoe parts to stick together; that is to say, the flange portionsof the leather of the upper, the margin of the box toe, and the marginof the lining, if one is used, will all be molded together and cementedor vulcanized in that condition by reason of the fact that the heatcauses the substance with which the box toe is impregnated to exude onboth sides of the box, and the pressure brings about the cementingaction between the parts.

After the outwardly extended flange has been shaped as described, theheating and pressing iron 103 is permitted to move upwardly and theweight 68 is moved about its pivot to a position where it rests upon theoutwardly turned flange of the shoei Also. the toe-molding plate 58 ismaintained in contact with the toe portion of the shoe upper, as alreadydescribed. The machine parts are allowed to remain in these positionsuntil the flange on the shoe has cooled and thus has taken on apermanent set, when the weight will be returned to its normal positionand the carrier 51 and the toe-molding plate 58 will be returned totheir rearward positions by breaking the toggle with the aid of the triplever 80, whereupon the last and shoe are ready for removal from themachine.

Due to the fact that the shoe parts illustrated in Figs. 1, 2 and 3 arequite small. I have not attempted to show in these views the preciseelements making up the shoe upper. However, in Figs. 6, 7 and 8 largerviews of a shoe being manufactured in accordance with my improved methodare illustrated, and in these views A designates the outer leather ofthe shoe upper, B the looX toe material thereof, and Cthe lining. Also,in Fig. 7 the reference character D designates a crease *hich is formedat the point where the operative edge of the toe forming plate 58contacts with the shoe upper when said toe forming plate is movedforwardly by operation of the toggle associated therewith.

Now, in disclosing the practice of the novel method that involves theuse of a machine of the type described, it is to be observed at theoutset that there are, generally speaking, three different kinds ofstitch-down shoes: First, the one which is unlined and does not includean insole; second, the one which is liner and does not include aninsole; and third, the one which is lined and has the lining lasted toan insole. The improved method may be practiced with equal facility and.success in the manufacture of all three types of these shoes, but forthe sake of clarity the following paragraphs will describe first themaking of the shoes without insoles, and next the making of those withinsoles.

So, speaking of lined and unlined stitchdown shoes without insoles, theupper is assembled in the ordinary manner on the last and submitted to acommon pulling over operation during which the bottom edge of theforepart, at spaced localities, is grasped and pulled to draw theforepart smoothly over the toe of the last, in which state the forepartis secured by means of suitable fastenin gs. Next, the heel seat of theshoe is lasted in and anchored, following which the toe portion of thelasted upper is softened, or ten'ipercd, as for example, by steaming ituntil the leather of. the toe, and also a box toe lying adjacent to theleather, are soft and pliable. In this connection it should be statedthat since box toes are impregnated with a substance such as creosote,latex, etc., which becomes tacky or sticky upon being heated to acertain temperature, it is always advisable to have a lining interposedbetween the box toe and the last, and hence, even in making unlinedstitch-downs, it is expedient to employ a tip lining to prevent the boxfrom stickin to the last and also to protect the foot or the one whosubsequently wears the shoe.

When the portion of the assembled upper has been sufliciently softened,the machine which is illust 'atcd in the drawings may be employed toperform the toe molding operation. In the performance of this ope 'ationthe pulled over upper is held against slipping while the toe endfastening (which was inserted during the pulling-over operation) isremoved. Any wrinkles appearing in that portion of the upper coveringthe toe of the last are next pulled out, and the smoothed toe is placedin engagement with the toe forming means, the top of which liesapproximately flush with the bottom plane of the last, the sidepulling-over fastenings are removed, and the toe is formed to assume asmooth and hard formation, as already .described.

Turning now to the manner of making a stitch-down shoe in which thelining is lasted to the insole, one satisfactory method of practicingthe process comprises temporarily fastening the insole to the lastbottom, pulling over, and heel seat lasting the upper, (as alreadydescribed), to the insole and last. Then, without removing thepulling-over fastenings, applying a coat of cement around the exposedmargin of the insole, and the inner margin of the lining, as iscustomary in this process. Still without removing the pulling-overfastenings, the cement coated margin of the lining is bent over andpressed, or lasted, firmly against the cement coated margin of theinsole. lVhen this has been done, the shoe is ready for the toe formingoperation and the process is completed exactly as described above,except that the cemented margin of the lining is left turned in, andonly the marginalportions of the box toe and of the upper are turned outand molded together to form the'stiff flange. Y

It is another feature of the invention to form the toe and the lateralmarginal flange in such a fashion that a small, but clearly defined andwell formed, crease D will mark the junction between the toe and theflange, whereby the lining, box-toe and leather of the molded upper areanchored against relative movement by means of the crease alone,regardless of the welding action. It is also to be realized, however,that the invention contemplates applying heat along the line of creaseonly, whereby the lining, box-toe and upper are welded very tightlytogether along that line only.

In forming the outwardly turned flange, the box-toe margin may, ifdesired, be turned in over the insole, and the upper only turned out, toeliminate the edge of the margin of the box-toe from appearing in theedge of the finished shoe.

Still another feature of the invention consists in performing the abovedescribed toe forming operation in such manner that, upon completion,the forepart, or toe, of the upper is rigidly secured to the last,notwithstanding the absence of all solid fastenings. This feature isaccomplished by beveling the bottom edge of the forepart of a last fromthe tip line on one side a)- the tip line on the other, as shown at E inFig. 6, and in molding the shoe in such a manner that the crease islocated within the bevel, below the bulge of the side walls of the last.Thus, when the shoe has cooled, it may be removed and handled freelywithout danger of the molded toe becoming disarranged, notwithstandingthe absence of fastenings of any sort. The beveled edge also presents auniformly shaped surface for receiving the pressure that is applied inmolding the crease.

After the toes have been formed it will be found a comparatively simplematter to finish lasting in the shoe by any of the usual methodspracticed in the manufacture of stitch-down shoes. The toe has beenformed efliciently and facilely, there are no metal fasteningssubsequently to interfere with the stitching operations, etc., and themolded flange serves-as a reinforcing rib in supporting the shoe inposition while cement lasting, staple lasting, or stitching theremainder of the upper to the insole, or to the sole in the event thatan insole is not employed.

iVhile the invention has been discussed with particular reference to themethod, it

- is to be appreciated that one of its objects resides in the provisionof a shoe, as an improved article of manufacture, provided with a moleed toe, flange, or both, of the character above described.

I claim:

1. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprisesmoving a heated element relative to and in contact with one of aplurality of shoe parts, one of which is impregnated with a substancewhich becomes tacky upon the application thereto of heat, for thepurpose of simultaneously ap plying heat and pressure to said pluralityof shoe parts, removing said heated element from said shoe parts, andapplying additional pressure thereto while the shoe parts are allowed tocool, whereby they are adhesively molded together.

2. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprisesbending the bottom edge portions of a lasted upper, including a box toehaving a sticky substance associated. therewith, into a position inwhich hey are disposed in a plane extending subtantially parallel to thelast bottom, applyin heat and pressure to said edge portions, wl erebyone of them becomes tacky and the others are adhesively molded thereto,discontinuing the application of heat and pressure to said edgeportions, and cooling the heated edge portions while applying additionalpressure thereto.

3. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprisesbending the bottom edge portions of the forepart of a lasted upper,including a box toe having tacky substance associated therewith, into aplane lying substantially parallel to the plane of the last bottom.applying heat and pressure to the bent edge portions by moving a heatedelement in a plurality of directions, including 'ansversely with respectto the major axis of the shoe, while said heated element is in contactwith said bent edge portions, whereby the tacky substance with which thebox toe of the upper is impregnated is caused to soften and exude,removing said heated element from said bent edge portions, applyingadditional pressure to said bent edge portions while cooling saidportions, whereupon the bent edge portions assume the. form of a stiffflange disposed approximately in the plane of the last bottom.

That improvement in methods of manufacturing stitch-down shoes, whichcomprises assembling the upper on a last, applying heat and pressure tomold the toe of the upper and simultaneously molding the edge portionsof the upper which project beyond the bottom of the last into anoutwardly projecting flange lying substantially within the plane of thelast bottom, and forming a crease at the joint of the molded flange andtoe, the crease being formed below the bulge of the side walls of themolded toe, whereby the portions of the u per forming the toe are heldby means of the crease and flange against movement relative to eachother, discontinuing the application of heat and pressure to the upper,and cooling the shoe while applying additional pressure to the outwardlypro ecting flange.

5. That improvement in methods of manufacturing stitch-down shoes whichcomprises assembling the upper, including a box toe having a tackysubstance associated therewith, on a last, bending outwardly the bottomedge portions of the upper that project beyond the last bottom,softening the forepart of the uper by steam, molding the toe of theforepart and simultaneously molding the flange by means of heat andpressure, whereby the substance with which the box toe is impregnatedexudes and the leather of the upper, the portion of the box toe, and themargin of the lining, all of which comprise the flange, are adhesivelymolded together, discontinuing the application of heat and pressure tothe upper, and then cooling the shoe while applying additional pressureto the flange.

That improvement in methods of manufacturing stitch-down shoes whichcomprises assembling the upper, including a box toe, on a last,smoothing the. toe portion of the upper over the toe portion of thelast, securing in place the smoothed out ortion of the upper, forming anoutwardly extending lateral flange out of the surplus upper materialthat projects beyond the last bottom, applying heat and pressure to theline of break between the portion of the upper covering the toe of thelast and the flange, whereby the box toe is broken down along that line,and cooling the shoe while continuing to apply pressure to the line ofbreak, whereby the cooled shoe is provided with a rigid rib marking theline of break between the toe and the flange.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing I hereunto aiiix my signature.

IVILLIAM KAUT.

